指力板 訓練指南 (Fingerboard) Metolius指力板 訓練指南 以下是Metolius攀岩好手多年來持續訓練，發掘問題，尋求解答，所歸納出來的訓練課程。 首 先我們必須強調，每一個攀岩者都有自己非常特殊複雜的的身體狀況。為了達到訓練的成效，你的訓練課程必須先對自己的強處與弱點做深入且完整的評估，同時考 慮個人攀岩的目標。希望以下的資訊能幫助你建立一套適合自己的個人化訓練課程。雖然目前市面上有各種的訓練書籍資訊，但是必須要瞭解這些資訊的提供對象是 怎樣的攀岩者，而你自己的定位又如何，是能夠全時從事攀岩與訓練的專業攀岩者或是只希望能強化體能與信心的週末攀岩者？ 蒐集各類的資訊，聽聽專家的意見，花些時間來試驗各種方法，然後進行對你最有效的訓練。唯有對自己的體能負責，對自己的訓練課程持之以恆，才能達到訓練的目標。 指力訓練是改進攀岩能力的關鍵 隨 著室內岩場的增多與盛行，指力板已退居為第二線的訓練工具。但是我們認為指力訓練板具有方便性與特定性的優點。在家中門廊安裝一塊不佔空間的指力板讓你既 使在忙碌中也能抽出時間進行快速的訓練。指力板的造型也能使你比在岩場更能有效評估特定力量進步的幅度。當你在指力板上抓著特定手點進行一組練習時，你很 容易控制訓練的份量。因此你可以訓練到體能的極限，卻不易讓手指受傷。 指力訓練的進步幅度較不容易掌握。要瞭解到你所鍛鍊的是肌腱與韌帶 締結組織。它們需要長時間才能夠增強，而當受傷時需要更長的時間才會痊癒。當你同時使用指力板與人工岩場訓練時，要小心避免手指與手臂承受過大的或過長期 間的負荷。當有受傷徵兆時，要花時間讓它復原。當症狀持續，特別是有長期疼痛與腫脹時，請尋求運動傷害的專業醫師治療。 訓練課程 你 可以利用Metolius指力板做兩類的訓練：培養爆發力或是培養肌耐力。以耐力為導向的訓練能使你的肌肉在長期間下運作。這類的訓練通常是讓你的肌肉在 處於接近有氧的狀態下運動，也就是在較輕的負荷下進行較長期間的運動。爆發力導向的訓練著重於短期間、高負荷的運動，讓你的肌肉在力量的極限下快速的疲 乏。此類的訓練能增強肌力（肌纖維增粗且能支配更多的肌纖維），使你能做出快速的移動。 以下的訓練方法均假設你的肌力已經達到相當的水準。這些訓練也都以爆發力為導向，這是因為： 我們認為你能從爆發力訓練中培養出一些耐力，但是卻無法從耐力導向的訓練中培養爆發力。當然，二者最好是能分別來訓練。 無論從生理上或心理上而言，長期間懸吊在指力板上訓練耐力都是極困難的。  每 次訓練的負荷重量必須由你自己來決定。使用你在各階段的最大安全負荷量能帶給你最大的增益。負荷量的決定是以你的體重為基準。如果你需要增加重量，可以使 用荷重的腰帶。如果你要減輕重量，可以將椅子或板凳放在指力板的後下方，以單腳下撐。記得另一腳留在你的正下方，當你墜落時能以此腳著地。你可以將磅秤放 在椅子上，如此能夠精確的測量到減輕了多少的重量（如右圖）。如果你不放心這種方法，也可以找同伴來舉起你。 善用你的同伴 同伴能幫你計時、增加或減少重量。他也能激勵你用盡最後的一分力量，保護你安全的墜落著地。 訂定訓練課程並且堅持下去 製作一張表單來記錄你的訓練進度。如果你有每階段荷重的詳細記錄，就能逐漸增加份量，讓你的訓練得到最佳的效果。 使用不同的手點做各種的訓練動作 你可能會發現某些手點較適合做引體向上而某些手點較適合做的懸吊或其他動作。很重要的一點是找出你的弱點並且優先訓練這部份。例如你或許較不善於抓住圓弧形的手點，那就在每次訓練的前期先專注於這類的訓練。每種訓練動作的手點最好每隔幾週能改變一下，讓你的訓練更加有效。 一些應避免的事宜 避免在指力板上做過多的引體向上。在固定的支點上做過多的引體向上容易導致肘關節受傷。如果你想要做比我們訂定更多的引體向上，建議使用Metolius指力環。 避免在指力板上做改變手指姿勢的動作。當你的手指承載了身體的重量後，不要再嘗試移動手指（例如以手指上拉），以免導致受傷。  手點的抓握方法是非常重要的。避免使用指關節彎曲超過90度的抓握法（cling/crimp)。即使在攀岩時也不宜經常使用這種方法，因為這種彎曲角度對 指關節造成非常大的負荷，容易導致受傷。我們發覺如果採用張開式抓法(open hand)的訓練，你能夠安全的同時增強彎曲式與張開式抓法的力量。右圖繪出了這兩種抓法。訓練時使用岩粉，並在需要時以尼龍刷來清潔指力板。訓練動作 以下是在指力板上的基本訓練動作： 懸吊 ─ 伸直或是彎曲手臂，單手或雙手。即使是伸直手臂，手肘仍須稍微彎曲。 引體向上 ─ 雙手對稱或是不對稱（一手抓較高或較小的手點）。不對稱式能增加對較高或較小手點的負荷，更能有效模擬某些攀岩狀況。 舉膝 ─ 抓住良好的手點然後將膝蓋舉至胸高，彎曲腰部與膝部。這個動作是鍛鍊常被忽略的腹部肌力。 聳肩 ─ 懸吊如上並在不彎曲手肘下提起、放上身體。這個動作鍛鍊肩部幾個不同的肌肉群。如同引體向上，我們建議低的重複次數。 訓練週期 就策略性而言，週期性的訓練能使你在最需要時達到顛峰，或許是比賽季節的進入，或許是攀岩旅行的開始。安排得當的話，運動傷害與心理倦怠的可能性會降至最低，而肌力、耐力能夠達到高潮。 整個原理很簡單：先建立基本的耐力，再培養最大的爆發力。如此的循環能使你獲得最大的力量增益並充滿鬥志。不至因日復一日重複同樣的訓練而陷入倦怠低潮，停滯在訓練的高原期。再完成高峰期循環後你必能邁向更新的攀岩挑戰。下表的週期範例可以在六月重新開始。  定義： 強度： 就單一動作或整體訓練而言，達到最大能力的百分比。例如在充分休息後，你最多能在某一手點懸吊1分鐘，則65%強度代表在同一手點懸吊40秒。利用這樣的 簡單測試方法來衡量你的最大極限。這些強度的數據必須注意調整，當你更強壯時向上調升，在你尚未自上次訓練完全恢復時向下調整。 份量：訓練的期間長短或做幾組或幾種動作。這是你在訓練中最容易調整的一項因素，當你更強時增加份量，當你尚未恢復時減少份量。要記得份量與強度是不同的。 負荷：從本身體重增加或減少多少重量。對許多動作而言，你必須根據不同的手點來增加重量（使用荷重的腰帶）或是減少重量（由同伴扶撐或以單腳輕踩下方的椅子）以達到一定的強度。 次數：做多少次引體向上或其他的動作。 頻率：每週訓練幾次。 其他的考慮因素 熱身：多花些時間來伸展並運動你將要使用到的肌肉。在訓練中與訓練後多喝水。 清楚分辨正常肌肉酸痛與締結組織受傷疼痛的差異。在訓練中受傷是摧毀你攀岩目標的最快速方法。 休息：找出在不同週期中你需要多少的休息並且切實遵守。你每次開始訓練時應該完全沒有肌肉疼痛。 次週期：在你的漫長艱辛的負荷期與高峰期中再加以區分，以避免陷入停滯高原期。通常依次為困難日、輕鬆日、中等日。如此適量的讓你得到一些舒解，但也不至於使你身體安於中度的體能狀態。 10分鐘訓練課程 以下之10分鐘訓練範例對於耐力與爆發力訓練有很好的結合。每個人必須經過一些試驗後再加以調整，也可以針對特定的攀岩目標加以修正。爆發力訓練的期間短而負荷重或困難。耐力訓練的期間較長而強度較弱。 每個動作在一分鐘內完成。利用剩餘的時間休息。在指力板下方掛一支錶或在牆上掛上一個鐘，使你在訓練時能很容易看的到。 初級  中級  熱身 充 分的熱身是培養肌力和避免受傷的最重要步驟之一。最好是先從大肌肉開始熱身，再到較小的肌肉。你可以先做低強度的有氧運動，再做些一般性的重量訓練。然後 在指力板上的各種手點做一兩下引體向上或10至20秒的懸吊，各個動作間隔30秒的休息。熱身後在花些時間作伸展運動，依然是從大肌肉開始再逐漸到手指部 份。在你完全熱身後休息5到10分鐘再開始訓練工作。 其他一些訓練要訣 絕對要有足夠的時間來熱身，這是你能避免受傷的最佳方法。 在你開始懸吊前花點時間讓你的手指熟悉並抓穩手點，如此能使你抓握的更有力，並建立訓練前的心理準備。 當你抓好手點準備要開始懸吊時，讓你的身體在手點的正下方，如此能避免你提起腳時身體的擺盪。擺盪會使你很難懸吊住。 當你準備好懸吊後，不要再移動手指在手點上的位置，特別是在圓弧形的手點上。 經常刷乾淨你的指力板。乾淨不滑膩的手點對你心理上很有幫助。 在每個動作前手指要好好的抹上岩粉。Metolius Super Chalk岩粉能帶給你最佳的效果。 建立個人化的訓練課程並且堅持下去。如果你有均衡的、變化不枯燥的課程，你一定能夠變的更強壯。進步是需要時間的，耐心能使你更快看到成果。 如 果你停滯在高原期的瓶頸，再回頭檢討一下當初的預期是否理想過高。通常停滯不前代表你可能需要更多的休息或者暫停某些例行訓練。或許你該想想如何更加的激 勵自己。找個同伴一同訓練，夢想一下你的下一場比賽或攀岩活動，或者想像一下完成訓練後會有多強壯。任何能維持你正面態度的辦法都是值得一試的！ 警語：指力板訓練潛藏著手指、手臂、肩部以及關節受傷的危險。請務必熱身、伸展、避免過度訓練、並且隨時注意身體徵狀以避免受傷。請切記即使在最佳狀況下仍有受傷的可能。安裝指力板時務必要穩固不晃動，以免在訓練時脫落。 資料來源: http://hk.geocities.com/hkclimbing/training.htm 原文參考:Metolius Fingerboard Training Guide (資料摘自Metolius攀岩精品) |
Metolius Fingerboard Training Guide
Source: Metolius Fingerboard Training Guide
Following are some training routines that have been developed through our own experience as well as that of our friends and associates. We are not professional exercise people. We are serious about our climbing and have seen the benefits of making training an integral part of our activities for many years. Our beliefs concerning training for climbing are the result of years of asking questions and searching for answers.
From our perspective, the single most important thing to keep in mind is that each of us has a very unique and complex body. To be most effective, your training program starts with a critical and complete assessment of your strengths and weaknesses along with your goals for climbing. If you use this realistic list as a filter for all the information available, hopefully you will end up with an individual program that is ideally suited to you. There are now many sources of information out there that pertain to training for climbing. Try to keep in mind who you are and who the information is targeted to, a person who can afford to climb and train full time or the weekend athlete who wants to make some gains in strength and confidence.
The bottom line in training is that you must be responsible for your own body and your own training schedule. Research the available information, listen to the "experts", take the time to experiment, and then do what works best for you.
Contact Strength or Finger Training is a Crucial Part of Improving Your Climbing
With the popularity and increased access to indoor climbing walls, fingerboards are becoming a second line method of training. However, we feel that there are some great advantages to the convenience and specificity of training boards. Having a board mounted in a doorway to a spare room or your garage makes it easy to schedule a quick workout if a little time is all you have. The specific nature of fingerboard training enables you to gauge your progress much more effectively than bouldering at the rock gym or your home wall. It is easier to control if and when you fail doing a set exercise on a particular hold on a board, than if you are desperately thrutching for the last hold on your latest plastic bouldering test-piece. This factor will hopefully permit you to work to your limits while minimizing the chance of injury to your fingers.
Finger training programs can be difficult to figure out. Keep in mind that what you are strengthening is essentially connective tissue, tendons and ligaments. It takes a long time to notice gains in strength in this tissue and a very long time to heal once it has been injured. If you are using fingerboard training in addition to indoor climbing on plastic, be aware of how much stress you are putting on your fingers and arms, and be careful to not over-do your training. If you start having problems, allow yourself time to heal. If problems continue, specifically long-term pain and swelling in your fingers, consult a sports-oriented physician.
The Training
There are two general categories of exercises that you can do on your Metolius training board. In simple terms, they are exercises that build power or exercises that build stamina /endurance. Endurance-oriented exercises are a set of tasks that put your muscles in a more or less aerobic state; that is, training your muscles to function for extended periods. They generally are a longer duration and a lower load exercises and you are maintaining a lower level "burn" in the muscles than the pump you get at the limit of your strength. Power-oriented exercises focus on short duration, higher load tasks that your muscles can’t maintain for very long. With these exercises, you are building strength (muscle fiber size ) and the capacity to recruit more muscle fibers for short, quick bursts of movement.
Any of the training that follows assumes a good base strength level. Most of the work or exercises that follow are power-oriented for a couple of reasons:
- We feel that you can develop some endurance from a power workout, but you cannot develop good power from an endurance-oriented workout and in fact, it is best if they are trained independently.
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- It is hard both physically and mentally, to hang on a board for the extended periods required to totally target endurance.
The amount of load you use for each exercise is up to you to determine. We feel the most gains happen if you use a safe maximum load for the cycle that you are in. Try to pick a load that allows you to barely hold on for the time indicated in the exercise. Load is determined relative to your body weight. If you need to add weight, use a weight belt. If you need to reduce weight, use a chair or step stool set back from and under the board that allows you push with one leg. Make sure your other leg stays below you, so that if you fall, you land on your feet. You can use a bathroom scale on a chair to give you a more accurate idea of how much weight you are taking off (see illustration). If you don’t feel safe using this method, have a partner lift you instead.
Use Partners
Partners can check your time and remove or add weight as well as give you assistance and cheer you on when you’re trying to get that last bit of effort out. Having a partner spot you when training to absolute failure is highly recommended.
Setup A Workout Schedule & Stick To It
Make a chart and use it to keep track of your training. If you keep a detailed record showing amounts of weight and/or assistance for each segment of an exercise, it will be much easier to slowly increase your workload. These records will help you get the most benefit from your training time.
Use Any of the Holds For Any Exercise
You will probably find that certain holds are better suited to certain exercises than others. For example, you would probably do pull-ups on different holds than short duration hangs. It is also important to look at your weakest points and train those first. For example, if you have a hard time holding onto sloping holds, focus your training there early in your workouts. It is also a good idea to change the holds you use for a given exercise every few weeks, to maximize the effectiveness of your training.
Dos & Don'ts
Avoid doing an excessive number of pull-ups on your board. A lot of pull-ups on a static bar can lead to elbow joint injuries. If you wish to do more pull-ups than our exercises indicate, we recommend that you use Metolius Rock Rings.
Avoid range of motion exercises for your fingers on any training board. Once you place weight on a hold do not attempt to move your fingers (don’t do mini pull-ups with your fingers) as this can lead to injury.
Avoid using crimp or cling grips. A very important aspect concerning any hold is how you hold on to it. It is extremely important that you do not use any kind of cling technique regularly. Because of the increased angle of your fingers while clinging, the load on your finger joint is far too high to be safe for training purposes. We have found that if you keep your hand more open, you will be safer and still can strengthen your fingers for both open-handed and cling holds. The illustration pictured shows both types of holds. Use chalk when training and occasionally clean your board with a nylon brush to maintain a consistent surface.
The Tasks
Following are the basic elements of exercises that can be done on your training board:
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Hangs - either straight arm or bent arm, one arm or both. When hanging straight, there should still be a slight bend to the elbows.
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Pull-ups - can be done with the hands parallel or offset ( one of your hands on a higher or smaller hold than the other). Offset pulls put more training stress on the higher or smaller hold arm and can more effectively simulate certain climbing situations.
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Knee Lifts - Hang on good holds and bring your knees to your chest, bending at the waist and knees. This task works the often overlooked abdominals for that solid mid-body connection.
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Shoulder Shrugs - Hang as above and raise and lower your body without bending your elbows. This exercise works several different muscle groups in the shoulder girdle. As with pull-ups, we would recommend keeping repetitions low.
Cyclic Periodization
As an overall strategy, cyclic periodization allows you to be at your peak when you want to be. Whether this corresponds to a big road trip or pushing your limits when the weather is the best is up to you. If properly done chances of injury and mental burnout are minimized and gains in strength and power are optimized.
The concept is simple; build a base of endurance then work toward maximum power. By pushing your body in these cycles you strike a balance between letting yourself be fresh and strong within the cycles and not letting yourself totally adapt to the stresses of the workouts. This keeps you from stalling at different plateaus and makes the gains possible much greater than doing the same sets of workouts month after month. Immediately following the peak cycle you should be ready to climb strongly. The Cycle Shown Below Would Start Again In June.
Definitions
- Intensity = A percentage of your maximum effort, as applied to a single set or an overall workout. As an example; when you are fully rested and it is all you can do to hang on a particular hold for one minute, then 65% intensity would be hanging for 40 seconds on the same hold. Picking an easy to measure test such as this and getting to know the level of "pump" that corresponds to that intensity, then allows you to tailor other exercises to your particular goal. This is the crucial element of any workout program, one that determines the other elements and one that needs the most attention and adjustment. Think of intensity as a set point that you need to adjust upward as you get stronger or adjust downward if you are not recovering between workouts.
- Volume = The length of your workout or how many sets or exercises. This is one of the easiest elements to adjust according to where you are in your training regime ( up as you get stronger, down if you are not recovering). Remember volume is not the same as intensity.
- Load = How much weight relative to body weight. This assumes that for many of the exercises with certain holds you will need to add weight ( by using a weighted belt) or subtract weight (by having a spotter lift you or by placing a footstool under the board to lightly put one foot on) to hang for a particular time for a set intensity.
- Repetitions = How many pull-ups or separate movements in an exercise.
- Frequency = How many days per week to train.
Other Elements to Consider
- Warm-up: Take plenty of time to stretch and lightly work all the muscles you are going to use in your workout session. Drink plenty of water during and following workouts.
- Know the difference between a healthy muscle ache and pain associated with connective tissue damage. There is no quicker way to sabotage your climbing goals than to try to train through injuries.
- Rest: figure out what you need for the different cycles and take it! You should go into each workout without muscle pain.
- Micro-cycles: These are incorporated into the longer, harder main cycles (load and peak ) to keep you from plateauing within the cycle. Usually done in a hard day! easy day! moderate day. This is intended to break up your routines enough that you stay rested, but still are not letting your body settle into one medium mode.
The Exercises
These exercises can be added to or used instead of the ones shown in the following example workouts. The 10-minute sequences especially lend themselves to experimentation. They are good combinations of endurance and power work and can be adapted to training for a specific climb. Keep in mind some general guidelines when thinking about adapting exercises to yourself. Power exercises keep durations of tasks short, with heavier or harder loads. Endurance exercises are longer, less intense; you should feel like you are maintaining a low-level pump. The easiest element of the exercises to change is generally load; be familiar with the various ways to do this. In the exercise sequences that follow, if a 2-minute rest is not indicated, proceed immediately to the next task.
Warming Up
One of the most important steps in muscular development and injury prevention is a thorough warm up. Generally, the best way to do this is to warm up the large muscles that will be used first, and then move to the smaller. There are various ways to accomplish this; start with low level aerobics, then general calisthenics or weight lifting. You can follow this with a series of one or two pull-ups or a 10 to 20 second hang on each hold on your board, with a 30s rest between each task. Take time to stretch after you are warmed up, once again starting with the large muscles and working your way to your fingers. After you are completely warmed up give yourself a rest of 5 to 10 minutes before starting the workout.
Extra Training Tips
1. Always give yourself enough time for a thorough warm-up. This is undoubtedly the best thing you can do to keep yourself injury free.
2. Take some time before you start each hang to work your fingers into the hold. This "milking the hold" enables you to get a more powerful grip and mentally prepares you for the task ahead.
3. When you are ready to hang for a time and after you have set yourself on the hold, let your body down directly below the hold, so that when you raise your feet your body does not swing. Swinging makes it a lot harder to hang on.
4. To be most effective, once you have milked the holds and started your hang, don’t move your fingers on the hold. This is especially true when hanging on slopers.
5. Brush the holds on your board frequently, even between exercises. Knowing the holds are clean and grease free is a big boost psychologically.
6. Chalk your hands and fingers well before each task. For superior performance, on plastic or rock, use Metolius Super Chalk.
7. Personalize your training regime and then stick to it. If you have a balanced program, with enough variety to keep you motivated you will get stronger. It takes time to see improvements, patience will make the gains come sooner.
8. If you feel stuck on a major plateau, go back over your original expectations and make sure they are realistic. Often, stalling may indicate you need more rest or a break from some part of your routine. Or it may mean take a look at what you can do to improve your motivation. Find a good partner to train with, dream about your next trip, or think about how good you will feel once you’re done with your workout. Anything you can do to maintain your positive attitude will pay off big!
Warning All Training Board Users: Training on a hangboard carries risk of injury to fingers, arms, shoulders and the joints connecting them. Take every precaution to avoid damage to yourself; warm-up, stretch, don't overtrain and listen to your body. Remember, even under the best of circumstances, injuries can occur. In addition, however you mount your board, be sure that it cannot move in any direction. There should be no possible way for the board to come down while training.
指力板 (Fingerboard 或稱 Hangboard) 參考圖片
梅竹岩館的 - 如何DIY指力板與木頭岩塊
可供 '巧手傑出人士' 自行DIY製造時參考用.
By Laiqq
http://laiqqq.spaces.live.com/blog/cns!7217054286CE7BBE!593.entry
自己組裝製作的指力板。
底座木板(大賣場買的)+指力條(拔山買的)+六個孔可裝岩塊(鑽孔+四角釘)，
在家看電視可以邊練指力，還不錯玩。
不過使用真的要小心，不然很容易受傷，手指或腳(不小時墜落又沒穿鞋或沒地墊)。
