教你三招防止手臂發漲

教你三招防止手臂發漲

想提高岩壁表現，努力訓練增加肌肉當然非常好；但學會在攀爬時節省體力和快速地恢復則更加聰明不是嗎！

上 面說的兩種方法都可以提高岩壁表現，但很多岩友們總是念念不忘練成強壯，而忽視了優化體力分配和高效恢復方法的價值。事實上，高手們的確都比較壯 - 但不見得壯的人都能成為高手。其實高手與一般愛好者區別只在細微之處：在攀爬過程中使用省力動作以防止手臂發漲疲勞以及在攀爬中最大限度的休息。下文中的 三招可以使你達到高手們的境界。試試看，你會發現無論你現在的程度和力量如何，手臂發漲和疲勞的現象都會被延緩。

在攀爬中節省體力 - 大多數的岩友在疲勞時都不會節省體力。提高攀爬的效率（儘量快地攀爬，防止出現體力耗盡）則需要有意識的努力，可以和一個伙伴練，搞個比賽什麼的。下面是幾條節約體能的技巧，可以在野外難度不大的線路上和人工岩壁上先練練。

　1、 在攀爬一條線路之前（觀察線路）先確定休息點，除了休息點別的地方不許掏粉和休息。在二個休息點之間要儘快通過。

　2、 在每一個手點上都不要抓握超過5秒，休息點除外。盡可能快地通過那些變態小點。

　3、 盡可能多地變化你抓點的方法。只要你覺得這點能按自己的想法抓，那就招呼吧！CRIMP、OPEN、THUMB LOCKS和PINCH！別放過任何一個大手點指點——這是非常好的省力點啊，而那些只爬FACE（岩面）線路的岩友們經常用不上。

在兩次抓點動作的過程中放鬆手臂和手指 - 大多數岩友爬線路時都是覺得快累了才歇，這不太對，應該採取一些更專業的休息方法。在你的手從一點移動到下一 點的過程中，張合幾次手指或是彎曲幾下手臂(想像在剛才抓變態小點時已經停止在手指手掌的血液又開始回流)，這個動作是你應該做的，因為可以刺激你前臂肌 肉的血液迴圈。在每次抓點過程中做這樣的放鬆其最終結果可以明顯地降低手臂發漲和疲勞的速度。

使用G-Tox方法加速恢復 - 手臂自然下垂抖動是大家都會用到的緩解手臂發漲的放鬆方法。然而這並非最好的方法，利用重力作用的方法更為有效，所以我也稱之為“G-Tox”。（G=GRAVITY重力）

G-TOX：在放鬆時，手臂在自然下垂位置和高於頭頂位置間不斷輪流交替。比如，手臂下垂放鬆5秒然後再舉過肩膀半彎曲放鬆5秒。如此迴圈直到完全放鬆或者你能在休息點處堅持的最大時限。

G- TOX的機理：你所感覺到的前臂發漲很大程度上是由於加速的乳酸堆積和血液迴圈受限所致。當你在抖手放鬆時新鮮血液流入手臂，但是由於手臂位置低於心臟， “老的血液”（攜帶有乳酸等的）並不能流出。其結果就造成了血液迴圈“堵塞”，從而沒法消除手臂的發漲疲張，且恢復得越來越慢。（以前你注意過嗎，當你垂 臂抖手放鬆時手臂是比剛才更漲了？）G-Tox方法使重力幫助靜脈血回流到心臟，從而促進乳酸的排出，加快恢復。這種方法的效果毫無疑問——當 你上舉手臂時，你肯定會感到小臂發漲在減輕。攀爬過程中，每次休息都使用這種方法，上舉位置和下垂位置交替抖手放鬆，每次5至10秒鐘。

(取自 三夫戶外運動論壇)



(原文取自 - www.climbing.com)

Tech Tip - Sport - Slowing the pump clock
By Eric J. Horst
Illustration by Mike Clelland

Slowing the pump clock: three strategies to prevent the pump

Training to get stronger is a good thing. Climbing in ways that conserve energy and enable rapid recovery is a smart thing! While both of these strategies will improve your climbing performance, too many climbers obsess about getting stronger, while not recognizing the value of optimizing their use of strength and accelerating their recovery. It’s a fact that all the best climbers are strong — yet not every strong climber rises to the top. The difference often lies in the subtleties: economy of movement, preventing the pump, and maximizing recovery while climbing. The following three strategies do just this. Use them, and you’ll find the pump clock ticking slower, regardless of your current strength or ability.

Climb with more economy. Most climbers get poor fuel economy when climbing near their limit. Learning to climb more efficiently requires a conscious effort, so get a partner and make a game out of it. The following are energy-conserving techniques to practice on moderate routes or in the gym:

‧ Predetermine the rest positions on a route and only chalk up and rest there. Climb briskly from one rest to the next.
‧ Limit your time on any given hold to five seconds or less, except for rest positions. Climb past the smallest, pumpy holds as fast as possible.
‧ Vary your grip position whenever possible. Alternate between crimps, open hands, thumb locks, pinches, and pocket grips as often as the rock allows. Don’t miss a chance to sink a hand jam or finger lock — these are great energy-saving grips that many face climbers miss.

Flex your fingers and wrist between grips. Recovering on a route is something most climbers just let happen. This is a mistake — instead, take a proactive role in the recovery process. Open and close your fingers or flex your wrist between each grip. Visualize flicking water off your fingers or hand as you reach for the next hold — that’s the motion you are after. This spurs blood flow through the forearm muscles — which actually stops during times of maximum gripping. The aggregate effect of doing this between every grip will significantly reduce your accumulated pump.

Use the G-Tox to speed recovery at rests. The “dangling arm shakeout” is the technique universally used to foster pump recovery. It is not, however, the best technique. A more effective method uses gravity to your advantage; hence, I call it the “G-Tox”. Alternate the position of your resting arm between the normal dangling position and an above-your-head position. For example, gently wiggle your arm in the normal by-the-side rest position for five seconds, then raise it to a half-bent position above your shoulder and shake it gently for five seconds. Repeat this cycle as often as needed — or for as long as you can hang out at the rest!
The pump sensation you feel in the forearms is largely the result of accumulated lactic acid and restricted blood flow. While the dangling-arm shakeout allows good blood flow into the forearm, it doesn’t help the flow of “old blood” out of the forearm, due to the arm’s position below your heart. The result is a traffic jam of sorts, which perpetuates the pump and slows recovery. (Have you ever noticed how the pump often increases as you begin the shakeout process with your arm by your side?) The G-Tox technique makes gravity your ally by aiding venous return to the heart. This enhances the removal of lactic acid and speeds recovery. The effects of this technique are unmistakable — you will literally feel your pump “drained” as you elevate your arm. Use the G-Tox at all your mid-climb shakeouts by deliberately alternating the position of your resting arm, between raise-hand and dangling position, every five to ten seconds.