Camalot 的使用指南 - Camalot Instructions for Use
- Instructions for Use (PDF) Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd.
* Camalots - Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd.
* Camalot - Wikipedia.org
* 只有英文版,開卷有益,讓您瞭解如何安全正確的使用Camalot.
Black Diamond Camalot™
How Does A Camalot Work? Essentially, a Camalot works by the movement and shape of the cams themselves. A spring-loaded camming device cam is shaped so that a line drawn from the axle to the cam’s point of contact with a vertical rock wall will remain at the same angle to the horizontal throughout the cam’s rotation. This shape is referred to as a “constant angle cam.” Whether the unit is well retracted or wide open, the “cam angle” [Figure 1(a)] is always the same. Without a constant cam angle, a unit would have different holding properties at various expansions. To determine the precise amount of curve for the cams, engineers use a logarithmic spiral, which creates a constant angle between the horizontal and any line drawn between the spiral’s center and the point of contact.
When you fall onto a Camalot placement, the cams want to rotate [Figure 2(a)] in response to the pull. To keep the unit from being yanked downward, an opposing force [Figure 2(b)] must hold it in place. As the Camalot is loaded in a fall, the downward pull [Figure 2(c)] is countered by the expansion of the unit as the cams rotate outward, pushing in opposite directions against the sides of the crack [Figure 2(d)]. This increases the friction force, and thus the Camalot’s holding power.
Limitations: Your Camalots are strong but they do have limitations. They must be in good condition and placed correctly in order to be reliable. All spring-loaded camming devices generate a large outward force when loaded, possibly levering out flakes and blocks that may appear secure. Camalots must be placed in secure rock to be reliable. Read and understand all instructions and warnings, and seek professional instruction before using them.
Placing A Camalot
Correct choice of Camalot size, proper placement and alignment of the cams, orientation in the expected direction of pull, and good rock quality—all are critical factors in a secure Camalot placement. Ideally, each of the cams should contact the rock at lower to mid expansion range (50% to 90% retracted), and the unit’s stem should point in the direction of anticipated loading. Due to its patented twin-axle design, the Camalot can also work in the “open” position as passive protection (Figure 3).
Bad Placements
Before and after each use, be sure your Camalots have smooth trigger action, easy cam retraction and expansion and independent cam motion.
Camalot Care
Camalots demand a certain amount of care. Proper storage and routine checkups will prolong the life of your Camalots.
If the webbing or stitching is fuzzy, frayed, melted, cut or torn, or has been overly exposed to ultraviolet light, the Camalot should not be used until you have the sling replaced. For recommendations on sling replacement, contact the Black Diamond Warranty Center in the United States by calling (801) 278-5552 or contact your local retailer for further information. If the trigger cable is fraying, Trigger Wire Replacement Kits are available for the Camalot.
Never Modify Your Camalots.
If you’re not sure whether a piece is reliable or not, the answer is simple: it’s not. No piece of gear lasts forever. Retire any weak, broken or dubious gear. When you retire your gear, destroy it to prevent future use.
Adopting Camalots
We strongly discourage secondhand use. Because you should always know a Camalot’s history, buying a used one is just plain risky. And if you happen to find a Camalot, be not tempted. You can’t trust a unit with an unknown past.
Strength
Climbing gear is rated for its actual failure load. This means that a unit could break at its rated strength. Black Diamond has adopted a high standard of product testing known as Three Sigma as a statistical basis for determining rated strengths. For details of Camalot strengths, weights and size ranges see chart below.
- Instructions for Use (PDF) Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd.
* Camalots - Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd.
* Camalot - Wikipedia.org
* 只有英文版,開卷有益,讓您瞭解如何安全正確的使用Camalot.
Black Diamond Camalot™
How Does A Camalot Work? Essentially, a Camalot works by the movement and shape of the cams themselves. A spring-loaded camming device cam is shaped so that a line drawn from the axle to the cam’s point of contact with a vertical rock wall will remain at the same angle to the horizontal throughout the cam’s rotation. This shape is referred to as a “constant angle cam.” Whether the unit is well retracted or wide open, the “cam angle” [Figure 1(a)] is always the same. Without a constant cam angle, a unit would have different holding properties at various expansions. To determine the precise amount of curve for the cams, engineers use a logarithmic spiral, which creates a constant angle between the horizontal and any line drawn between the spiral’s center and the point of contact. When you fall onto a Camalot placement, the cams want to rotate [Figure 2(a)] in response to the pull. To keep the unit from being yanked downward, an opposing force [Figure 2(b)] must hold it in place. As the Camalot is loaded in a fall, the downward pull [Figure 2(c)] is countered by the expansion of the unit as the cams rotate outward, pushing in opposite directions against the sides of the crack [Figure 2(d)]. This increases the friction force, and thus the Camalot’s holding power.Limitations: Your Camalots are strong but they do have limitations. They must be in good condition and placed correctly in order to be reliable. All spring-loaded camming devices generate a large outward force when loaded, possibly levering out flakes and blocks that may appear secure. Camalots must be placed in secure rock to be reliable. Read and understand all instructions and warnings, and seek professional instruction before using them.
Placing A Camalot
Correct choice of Camalot size, proper placement and alignment of the cams, orientation in the expected direction of pull, and good rock quality—all are critical factors in a secure Camalot placement. Ideally, each of the cams should contact the rock at lower to mid expansion range (50% to 90% retracted), and the unit’s stem should point in the direction of anticipated loading. Due to its patented twin-axle design, the Camalot can also work in the “open” position as passive protection (Figure 3).- Practice placing Camalots while you are still on the ground. Before slotting the unit in a crack, ask yourself some questions: Does the rock look solid? Avoid hollow, soft or loose stone. Expanding flakes are particularly unreliable. What is the texture of the rock? Because spring-loaded camming devices rely on friction between the cams and the rock
surface, they could slip if the rock is polished, smooth, icy or wet. A pebble or spur inside a crack could offset the cams or break off when the unit is loaded. - Look at your rack and estimate the best size of Camalot for the placement. Keep in mind that, when given the choice, well-retracted cams (Figure 4) make a better, more reliable placement than cams which are almost completely extended (Figure 13).
- Remove the unit from your rack and retract the cams by pulling back the trigger bar.
- Insert the unit, cams-first, into the crack with the stem pointing toward the direction of loading (Figure 5).
- Release the trigger bar and let the cams spring outward. All four cams must contact the rock to make a good placement.
Give the Camalot a tug in the direction of expected pull. Ideally, the unit should be immobile. It should not “walk” or rotate on its cams. If you think rope movement will cause it to walk out of position, use a long runner. - Clip the unit into the rope using a carabiner attached to the end of the sling or wire loop (Figures 6 and 7). Clipping directly into the wire loop with a carabiner can reduce the strength of the unit by up to 2 kN (450 lbf).
- Never clip as shown in Figure 8 or 9
- Train yourself to imagine the entire pitch as a system of protection. Never rely on a single piece of pro to keep you off the ground.
Flaring cracks, which widen toward the front, are difficult to protect with any gear. Camalots can protect flares in situations when other gear might not. However, the more a crack flares the less reliable any placement becomes. - Because Camalots are flexible units, their stems can be loaded over edges, although some strength will be sacrificed. Loading a unit without bending it is always preferable. If you load a Camalot with its stem placed over an edge, inspect it afterward to make sure the stem hasn’t been kinked. If for some reason the plastic stem tube on a Camalot is cut or torn, the unit is still usable. However, inspect any exposed cable for signs of fraying.
- Your Camalot’s wire loop can be damaged or deformed in a very hard fall. Inspect the cable for fraying and retire if damaged.
- A completely retracted Camalot can be very difficult to remove. Leave room for the cams to retract a little further so your device can be retrieved.
Bad Placements
Never position a Camalot at the edge of a crack (Figure 10), it could slip out of the crack and fail to arrest a fall. - Never place a Camalot so that the cams are offset, e.g. with two cams extended and two cams retracted. Figure 11 shows a Camalot with the front pair of cams well placed while the back pair are too extended. It may not hold a fall. In Figure 12 the pair of cams on the left are too extended. This placement may not hold a fall.
- Figure 13 shows a unit with all of the cams extended. Though the unit is strong in this position the cams are not supported securely here. The unit could twist out and the placement can fail.
- Danger: Avoid placing Camalots in vertical bottoming cracks where it is not possible to align the stem in the direction of the load. Under these circumstances the strength of the placement will be greatly compromised and can fail. See Figure 14.
Before and after each use, be sure your Camalots have smooth trigger action, easy cam retraction and expansion and independent cam motion.Camalot Care
Camalots demand a certain amount of care. Proper storage and routine checkups will prolong the life of your Camalots.
- Store Camalots in a clean, dry environment, out of direct sunlight.
- Keep Camalots away from heat sources.
- Do not allow Camalots into contact with corrosives such as battery acid, solvent, etc.
- If your Camalot has sticky action or is clogged with dirt: wash in very warm, clean water and dry completely. Lube after washing and drying and wipe off the excess.
- Wash and lube after contact with saltwater or salt air.
- Keep axles lubricated to prevent rust.
- The cams have been damaged in a fall.
- The cams are bent, chipped or deformed.
- The cam teeth are worn away.
- The wire loop is frayed, kinked or damaged.
- The stem cable is frayed, kinked or damaged in any way.
- The springs are weak or damaged.
If the webbing or stitching is fuzzy, frayed, melted, cut or torn, or has been overly exposed to ultraviolet light, the Camalot should not be used until you have the sling replaced. For recommendations on sling replacement, contact the Black Diamond Warranty Center in the United States by calling (801) 278-5552 or contact your local retailer for further information. If the trigger cable is fraying, Trigger Wire Replacement Kits are available for the Camalot.
Never Modify Your Camalots.
If you’re not sure whether a piece is reliable or not, the answer is simple: it’s not. No piece of gear lasts forever. Retire any weak, broken or dubious gear. When you retire your gear, destroy it to prevent future use.
Adopting Camalots
We strongly discourage secondhand use. Because you should always know a Camalot’s history, buying a used one is just plain risky. And if you happen to find a Camalot, be not tempted. You can’t trust a unit with an unknown past.
Strength
Climbing gear is rated for its actual failure load. This means that a unit could break at its rated strength. Black Diamond has adopted a high standard of product testing known as Three Sigma as a statistical basis for determining rated strengths. For details of Camalot strengths, weights and size ranges see chart below.
墜落本來就是攀岩過程中一定會發生的事了。可能是把手點斷了，腳滑了，手沒力了，然後咻，離開岩壁。所以說認識適當的墜落方法並練習墜落是很重要的，因為我們是要安全地墜落而不只是墜落。
