基礎墜落 - The Basics of Falling

基礎墜落 - The Basics of Falling

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Author: Arno Ilgner
Illustration: Mike Clelland
Source: Climbing Magazine

譯者: nin(版主) - 台灣攀岩資料庫
譯文摘自: 綜合攀岩技術討論 - 台灣攀岩資料庫
日期: 01/29/2005

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墜落本來就是攀岩過程中一定會發生的事了。可能是把手點斷了，腳滑了，手沒力了，然後咻，離開岩壁。所以說認識適當的墜落方法並練習墜落是很重要的，因為我們是要安全地墜落而不只是墜落。

先接受再說
不管什麼原因，只要墜落，我們就有可能受傷或死掉。先預想一切可能的後果，總會讓人比較容易處理事情。我們需要誠實地想像各種墜落後的可能後果，而不是自以為會沒事。
先接受死傷的各種可能性，我們才有辦法真的進入狀況。有了這種了悟，才能下有效和適當的決定。當我們一但知道了接下來的可能結果，我們便可以做出反應。而這種反應可以有效地把墜落狀況，縮小在某種預期的範圍裡。

開始練習
練習墜落可以加強我們真正墜落時反應的能力。雖然說我們都準備好受傷，不過還是把這種機會減到最低。我們練習墜落的岩壁區域最好沒有任何突出地形，而且請做好絕對的確保措施。剛開始練習時可以選一面有些微外傾的岩壁來練習，以避免不必要的受傷。
當 經驗越來越多時，可以開始練習比較危險的墜落情形，像比較垂直的岩壁，或練習有點擺盪的墜落。整個系統裡的繩子長度要夠長，我們和確保者之間的繩子長度最 少最少要有50英尺，以便分散地吸收墜落時的力道。繩子在練習墜落期間會延展或扭曲，所以在幾次的墜落之後，應該把繩子抽下來並好好整理一下，讓它回復原 本的長度與形狀。

如果你在墜落方面是個新手，那可以用漸進的方式來練習。先試試toprope的方式。先習慣吊在半空中的感覺，反覆踏著 岩壁或在岩壁上來回小跑步也不錯。之後讓確保者別把繩子帶太緊，讓繩子有點鬆鬆的，然後往上爬幾個動作之後練習墜落一下。接下來可以開始練習先鋒墜落，前 幾次可以練習在bolt附近墜落，之後往上多加一個動作或多加兩個動作再墜落。要一點一點增加先鋒墜落的距離。

練習墜落時身體要保持適當 的姿勢，適當的姿勢包括手肘和膝蓋要微彎，並讓手大概維持在胸前的位置，以便應付可能的撞擊。當然別抓繩子。自然的落下比彈跳出岩壁要好得多，因為這樣可 以避免撞回岩壁。慢慢摸索自己的呼吸與自我放鬆的方法。如果還是無法自然呼吸或還是一樣緊張，那就別急著去增加墜落距離。練習會擺盪的墜落時，要注意繩子 與腳的相對位置。如果bolt很單純地在正下方，那繩子要在雙腳之間。如果bolt在左右，那繩子必須在雙腳外面。剩下的便是好好飛吧。

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Tech Tip - Sport - The basics of falling

Author: Arno Ilgner
Illustration: Mike Clelland
Source: Climbing Magazine

Falling is part of the climbing process. A hold breaks, we slip, pump out, and we’re off. It’s important to find appropriate ways to practice falling so we learn to do it safely.

Embrace. When we fall, intentionally or otherwise, we risk injury or death. To embrace the situation we need to be fully aware of everything that could happen. We need to honestly assess all the possible outcomes rather than block them out. By accepting the possibilities — death, injury, or no injury — we become fully aware of what we are getting ourselves into. This awareness is critical for effective and appropriate decision-making. Once we are conscious of all the possible outcomes, we can make effective, appropriate decisions that limit the kinds of fall consequences we engage.

Engage. By practicing falling we improve our ability to respond to a fall. Even though we want to embrace the possibility of injury, we want to minimize the chance of that outcome.
Your fall practice zone should be free of any protruding ledges and should have bomber protection. In the beginning of your practice, choose a fall zone that is slightly overhanging to help reduce the possibility of injury. Then, as you gain experience, you can practice more hazardous falling situations, such as those on vertical rock or with slightly swinging falls. Have plenty of rope in the system — at least 50 feet of rope between you and your belayer — to absorb the fall force. The rope will stretch during your practice session, so, after a few falls, lower off and let the rope regain its shape and length.

If you’re new to falling, engage it gradually. Begin on toprope. Get used to the feeling of hanging on the rope, perhaps “running” or “pedaling” back and forth across the rock. Then, tell your belayer to leave some slack in the rope while you climb up a few moves and take a fall. Next, try practicing your lead falls. Begin by simply letting go right by the bolt. Then, climb a move or two above the bolt and take a fall. Increase your fall distance in small increments.
Maintain proper form as you practice falling. Proper form includes keeping your arms and legs slightly bent with your arms out in front at chest height so you can respond to potential impact. Don’t grab the rope. Step off gently rather than jumping out and back, which can cause you to slam into the wall. Pay attention to your breathing and how relaxed you feel. If you are holding your breath and feeling tense, then you need more practice before progressing to the next increment.

When taking diagonal falls, pay attention to the rope in relation to your feet. If you are directly above the bolt, then the rope needs to be between your feet. If you are to the right or left of the bolt, then the rope needs to be outside of your feet. Enjoy your flight!

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