Advanced Footwork Techniques For Rock Climbing
攀岩是在陡坡地形、山區丘陵地或者人工岩場等地方做垂直上攀或下降。 這需要結合力量、控制和熟練的操縱技巧，使用手腳肌肉將自己拉上岩石需要力量與控制，而手握法和腳踩法屬於操縱技能。 攀岩具有危險性，就是為何有些人是被腎上腺素上衝的刺激感吸引而來、一些人是來尋求自我滿足、另一些為運動而參與。 攀岩是種需穿戴裝備的運動，各種攀岩類型都有它的特色和方式，例如：依照攀登地區的不同可分成傳統攀登、室內攀登、冰攀和抱石。也有其他類型如運動攀登、 自由獨攀等。
技巧
幾乎任何人只要有良好體型都可以攀岩。 大多時攀岩最好用腳來支撐，保持重心落在腳上並用腿推進，手臂和手只用於平衡和姿勢。 但當路線變得困難時，攀登者手臂、手和手指需要驚人的強度和耐力來黏在岩石上。 想要鍛鍊這般技巧和耐力，必須先在安全的環境練習，如室內攀登，然後再嘗試傳統攀登。
攀岩和各種動作
攀岩跟有效地手腳協調相關，手的動作跟握石法有它的稱呼，這很重要因為在攀岩時它們控制上半身，一些已知的稱呼如：Bump(突點法)、Campus(純手 攀)、Crimp(捲曲式)、Gaston(橫拉法), Lock Off(鍞住)、Latch(栓住)、Slap(掌擊法)、Match(雙手同點)、Side Pull(側拉式)、Crossover(交叉式)、和Undercling(倒拉式)。
運用腳法技巧攀岩使下半身熟練地移動，最首要最基礎的腳踩法是使用腳趾並非腳。以下提及一些包含進階級和基礎級的腳法技巧：
1. Backstep(側身式,交叉步): 包含用腳外側踩身體後方岩點，臀部朝岩壁內移。
2. Drop Knee(垂膝式): 垂膝式跟側身式相似，為了有較好的延伸範圍將臀部貼近岩壁來踩定膝的位置。
3. Flag(掛旗法): 伸展未踩點的那隻腳，以保持平衡避免開門效應。
4. Hand-Foot Match(手腳同點):手腳踩在同岩點時的動作。
5. Heel Hook(腳跟鉤住法): 這種動作常用在陡坡和懸岩地勢，將腳跟支撐在岩點上，接替手臂的負重。
6. Knee Bar (鎖膝法): 一種休息的姿勢，將膝及腳塞入兩個岩點之間。在陡坡和懸岩地勢時很有用。
7. Frog Step(青蛙步): 保持身體正對岩壁，兩腿同時伸長，以觸及到更高的把手點。
8. Rock On(坐點): 轉移體重的一種動作。
9. High Step(高跨步): 抬高腿踩較高的腳點。
10. Step-Through(側走法): 另一條腿穿過站立的那條腿前面，走向另一邊。通常是用在橫渡時。
11. Swap Feet(換腳踩法): 腳點換腳。
12. Smear(磨擦點踩法): 岩壁上沒有好腳點時，用岩鞋底平面的磨擦力粘住岩面，配合全身移動的各種動作，可幫助你輕易地施展攀爬技巧；另外該腳法也可增進你在攀岩上的體驗。
譯者註:
- 翻譯謬誤及不妥之處歡迎不吝指正。
- 若非涉及商業行為，譯者歡迎各方引用、轉貼、訂正，應指明原著出處、原作者姓名和自行負責版權問題。
- 插圖參考其他網頁資料，非原文所附。
*************************************************************
原作者: Alet Viegas
原載於: Ezine Articles - ezinearticles.com
原載日: 10/21/2007 (October 21, 2007)
譯者: MingCheng (宗明)
日期: 02/10/2008 (Feb. 10, 2008)
*************************************************************
Advanced Footwork Techniques For Rock Climbing
By Alet Viegas
Article Source: Ezine Articles - ezinearticles.com
Submitted On: October 21, 2007
Rock-Climbing is the vertical ascension or descent on any steep terrain, mountain hill or artificial wall etc. It requires a combination of strength, control and good maneuvering skills, so to pull your self up a rock requires the use of muscles in the legs and hands and this takes strength and control, while where to place your feet and hands is all about maneuvering skills. Rock climbing has an element of danger, which is why some of the participants join for the adrenaline rush, some for their own personal satisfaction and some for sport. Rock climbing has a panoply of styles, each with its own features and methods. For example depending on the area being climbed, it is differentiated into traditional rock climbing, indoor climbing, ice climbing and bouldering and then there are other styles like sport climbing, free solo climbing etc.
Skills
Rock climbing can be done by almost anyone so long as they are in best physical shape. When rock climbing it is best to do most of the climbing using the legs and try to keep the center of gravity over the feet and push with the legs. The arms and hands are used only for balancing and positioning. However as the route of the climb becomes difficult, the climber needs incredible arm, hand and finger strength and endurance to stick to the rock. To build such skill and endurance, it is necessary to first practice at a safe environment like indoor climbing centers and then try traditional rock climbing.
Rock Climbing and Various moves
Rock climbing is about effective hand and feet co-ordination. Hand movements and grip on the rocks have names and it is very important because of the control they have on the upper body while climbing. Some of the moves are known as Bump, Campus, Crimp, Gaston, Lock Off, Latch, Slap, Match, Side Pull, Crossover and Undercling.
The footwork techniques in rock climbing are for the skillful movement of the lower body. The first and important basic about footwork in rock climbing is to use the toes and not the feet. Some of the footwork techniques both advanced and basics are mentioned below-
1. Backstep: It involved the placement of the foot on the outside edge behind the body and moving the hip inward towards the wall.
2. Drop Knee: The backstep and drop knee are similar, to position the knee by bringing the hip closer to the wall for greater reach.
3. Flag: An extended leg that counterbalances the body and prevents the center of mass from barn dooring.
4. Hand-Foot Match: This move places the hand and foot on the same hold.
5. Heel Hook: This move is used on steep and overhanging terrain by resting the heel on a hold hence taking off the weight on the arms.
6. Knee Bar: A resting position achieved by caming the top of the knee and a foot between two holds.
7. Frog Step: A frontal body position in which both legs are extended simultaneously to reach higher handholds.
8. Knee-Bar: This position is obtained by camming the upper thigh and foot against two holds and is a rest position that is useful when climbing steep or overhanging terrain.
9. Rock On: It is the movement that shifts the body weight.
10. High Step: Moving to a higher foothold by lifting a leg.
11. Step-Through: To step sideways in front of the leg that you are standing, usually in a traverse.
12. Swap Feet: Exchanging foothold.
13. Smear: Pacing the bottom of your foot flat against the surface of the rock when no good foothold is available Along with this there are full body movements that help in easy maneuvering, besides this rock climbing equipment makes it easier improves the climbing experience.
下列在譯文中出現的譯詞，註明 * 處是為了完成譯文，在兩岸三地中文網頁找不到合適譯法，不得不硬著頭皮自作主張，應該有更貼切更口語化的稱呼，請人客啊集思廣益：(兩岸用詞差異不小，這裡混雜引用，但以參考台譯為主)
Crimp(捲曲式)
Match(雙手同點)
Side Pull(側拉式)
Crossover(交叉式)
Undercling(倒拉式)
Bump(突點法) *
Campus(純手攀) *
Gaston (橫拉法) *
Lock Off(鍞住) *
Latch(栓住) *
Slap(掌擊法) *
Flag(掛旗法)
Heel Hook(腳跟鉤住法)
Rock On(坐點)
High Step(高跨步)
Smear(磨擦點踩法)
Backstep (側身式*,交叉步)
Drop Knee(垂膝式) *
Hand-Foot Match(手腳同點) *
Knee Bar (鎖膝法) *
Frog Step(青蛙步) *
Step-Through(側走法) *
Swap Feet(換腳踩法)
沒有留言:
張貼留言