2008年5月21日 星期三

戶外先鋒攀登十項必備物品

戶外先鋒攀登十項必備物品
The 10 essentials of sport climbing


當你初入攀岩登山這一行當的時候,一定有人告訴你戶外運動的十項必備物品以及這些物品的功用和重要性。就像地圖、指南針等等對於登山是不可缺少的,現今時興的先鋒攀登中也有它自己的必備物品清單。

1. GRIGRI

仍 然在使用使你的繩子纏繞捲曲的確保器嗎?還是試試PETZL出品的GRIGRI吧。GRIGRI對於先鋒攀登者來說,真是天降福音。這種可以自鎖的確保器 使墜落的攀登者不再出現滑脫下去的危險,而且當攀爬者需要在路線上反復上下練習難點動作時能大大降低確保者的工作量──至少,攀登者坐在繩上休息時,確保 者也能雙手鬆開休息。

2. 確保者手套

繩子經常是骯髒的,保護操作會使你的手敷上一層黑亮的“釉彩”,給你的下一輪攀登帶來潛在的不利影響。除非在攀登之前你有機會用濕紙巾仔細擦淨手掌,否則最好戴上手套(薄皮革的或者是自行車手套就不錯)保護你珍貴的皮膚。

3. 水

很多攀岩者忽視了野外攀登中水份的補充。這是一個不好的習慣,會導致糟糕的攀登表現、肌肉痙攣、以及筋鍵脆弱易受傷。你需要有規律地補充水份。只有尿液是清澈的而不是像松脂那麼黃,才表明你處於理想的水份狀態。

4. 食物

當然,你可以餓上一整天,然後感覺自己好像變輕了一些。可與此同時,你也將體會到低血糖所帶來的奇妙的眩暈感。也許每個人對於野外攀登時的食物都有自己的偏好,不過最好避免含蔗糖的食品或者是任何你覺得難以消化的食物,以免肚子發脹,影響軀幹彈力。

5. 額外的衣物

當然,在攀岩季節的絕大部分時候,絕大部分先鋒攀登的場地,都不會寒冷到要把人凍死的程度。不過,盡可能保持溫暖會讓你更舒適──尤其是在確保的時候──這樣你的肌肉才能處於柔軟鬆弛的狀態。羽絨外套輕便易穿脫,是不錯的選擇。

6. 手機

很 多的廣告在向我們表明,這種設施在緊急狀況下是多麼有用。你還可以用它來與同伴交流或是詢問路線資訊。比如說:“嘿,夥計,我已經到了這個掛腳休息的大洞 了,你能不能告訴我下一個可以用膝蓋支撐停住的地形在哪個方位?” 但是,最好不要因為鈴聲影響其他攀登者。還有,使用之前確定一下那個地域是有信號的。

7. 一條大的、濕漉漉的狗

這實在算不上什麼必備物品,可是人們出門總愛帶著它,這是怎麼回事呢?

8. 護膝

聰明的先鋒攀登者的錦囊妙袋中,護膝是必不可少的物品。大部分高手喜歡在護膝的外表面縫上一塊攀岩鞋的橡膠鞋底以提供更好的粘附力。

9. 緊急醫療箱

把 所有的緊急救護必備物品都收集到箱子裏,另外再放上一套處理皮膚破損的用具。絕大部分先鋒攀登的線路不像裂縫路線那樣磨損皮膚,也不太有必要把膠布纏得像 手套一樣。但塗上一層安息香膠酊劑(或者其他按摩膏活絡油)再纏上運動膠帶確實能提供對筋鍵的支撐和加速破損皮膚的恢復。打磨老繭的 鋼挫和剪指甲的剪刀也是應該放在箱子裏的東西。

10. 輔助扣快掛的小棍 (Stick clip)

這東西的使用潛力巨大,用途廣泛。有些人用它來扣上位置過高的第一把快掛;有些人發現面對高於自己極限一整級的路線時,它是一個非常好使的輔助工具。具體怎麼用,就看你自己的選擇了。

********************************************************************************
作者: Matt Samet
插圖: Mike Clelland
載於: Climbing Tech Tips 210 - www.climbing.com
載於: 譯文 攀岩常識-中國戶外資料網
譯者: 張清
日期: 2003年6月譯


The 10 essentials of sport climbing

By Matt Samet
Illustrations by Mike Clelland

Get kitted up — and don’t forget the dog food.

If you’re a crusty old dinosaur like me then you probably remember being taught the importance of the 10 Essentials upon your introduction to climbing and the mountains. While these items (map, compass, food, water, umm, uh, hmmm . . .) are just as important to safe mountain travel as they ever were, the ultra-committing realm of modern sport climbing has yet to see the creation of its own list. Here it is, in no particular order:

1. GriGri. Still short-roping your partner with a cord-kinking belay plate? Get hip to Petzl’s GriGri, a veritable godsend for belay-challenged sport climbers. Not only does this self-locking belay device make it much harder to drop your climber, it also lets you go “hands-free” when the hangdog-a-thon begins.

2. Belay gloves. Ropes are dirty, and rope handling will coat your hands with a gloss so insidious as to potentially spoil a redpoint attempt. Unless you dig cleaning up with baby wipes between belay sessions, wear gloves (thin leather or BMX-type gloves work well) to protect your precious mitts.

3. Water. Many climbers neglect to hydrate properly during the day, a bad practice that can lead to reduced performance, muscle cramping, and brittle tendons. Drink regularly and make sure your urine is clear (not Pine-Sol yellow) for optimum hydration.

4. Food. Sure, you can starve yourself all day and feel a bit lighter on your feet, but at a certain point the novelty of the low-blood-sugar stupor wears off. Everyone has his or her own opinion about crag food. Avoid sugary foods and anything you find hard to digest lest your belly bloat and diminish your body tension.

5. Extra clothing. You probably won’t freeze to death at most sport climbing areas, where the car is rarely far away. Nevertheless, it’s a good idea to keep warm — especially when belaying — so your muscles stay limber and loose. Fashion-conscious folks should sport trendy down jackets while the more “alt-minded” set should opt for a grittier brand like Carhardt.

6. Cell phone. Testimonials abound about how useful these otherwise irksome devices are in crisis situations. They can also be used to telephonically troll for beta, as in “Hey dude, I’m out at the Super Sleazy Cave and I’m wondering where that 14th kneebar goes in on Spuzz Bucket.” Don’t forget to leave the ringer off at the crag.

7. A big, wet dog. These aren’t actually that essential but people love to bring them climbing anyway. What’s up with that?

8. Kneepads. A necessary evil, kneepads are part of any smart sport climber’s bag of tricks. Most cognoscenti prefer their kneepads with a patch of shoe rubber sewn to the front for greater adhesion.

9. First-aid kit. Get all the necessary emergency-care items in here, plus a skin-repair kit. As my friend Jean, a die-hard sport climber, once said, “If the back of my hand touches the rock it’s not climbing!” Though most sport routes don’t require the use of crack gloves, athletic tape over a thin layer of tincture of benzoin helps with tendon support and skin repair. An emery board for filing down calluses and a set of nail clippers are also de rigeur.

10. Stick clip. The potential for abuse is high with these. Some find them handy for high first clips while others find them handy for aiding up routes full number grades over their head. The choice is yours.




Stick clip
是一支一端挷有快扣的長棍,常用一支長桿和一段膠帶製作,它讓運動攀登的先鋒攀登者從地面上掛第一個或者是較高的耳片。 Stick clip常用在先鋒攀登者覺的掛第一個快扣不安全,因此先用工具將第一個快扣掛上。

這是非必要的攀岩設備,在大部份的運動攀登中很少用到。



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