簡易吊帶 DIY (簡易座帶)

簡易吊帶 DIY

圖．文：陳家麟(Steven Chen)
資料來源：微岩運動攀登俱樂部
資料收集：宗明 (Ming Cheng)
日期：2008/3/6


這張圖在2003年也在台灣攀岩資料庫提及,也在大陸戶外運動網頁廣佈流傳(又稱為:'簡易安全帶'),確實簡易方便,但專用的攀岩座帶在攀爬中足以保護墜落的衝擊,這個簡易吊帶使用時機要小心斟酌,先請示敎練或資深領隊.

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By 馬克教練 (Mark)

為了喚起各位的記憶, 特別也製作了一個圖片, 供各位參考.

但也特別說明, 簡易吊帶主要目的是應急, 或緊急狀況使用, 過去會使用簡易吊帶是因為六零.七零年代物資缺乏所致, 今天已到九零年代, 該用合格吊帶還是要買, 不要反客為主.

轉貼自微岩網站所提供的簡易吊帶, 個人看法是主要為任務型吊帶, 也就是說是馬上要用的吊帶, 因為它的結構不適合走來走去, 有鬆散拖沙的疑慮, 因此應該是由教練親自幫忙穿著, 套上鉤環然後立即吊掛上攀或垂降.

這種吊帶如果可能, 最好搭配胸帶使用, 會更加理想.

我們所教學的吊帶, 如下所述:

吊帶名稱: 威廉式簡易吊帶(名字是我取的, 因為形狀及原理類似BlackDiamond威廉式吊帶)
吊帶出處: 六零年代山訓教官指定教學使用.(作者註: 六零年代的教官教學法不一定等同九零年代山訓教官教學法)
繩索材質: 6MM圓繩或扁帶.
繩索長度: 依身材比例, 大致為160公分要使用320公分長度.以此類推.
吊帶特性: 可做為山訓活動使用.
圖片如下:

圖片說明:
圖1.將繩繞於腰後位置, 然後雙手將繩做出左右相等長度.
圖2.先在腹部位置打出一個平結, 鬆緊度以繩索服貼腰部為主.
圖3.將雙繩自然垂至跨下, 然後彎腰用雙手由臀部後面, 分別將左右繩順邊提起.
圖4.將雙繩分別由內而外由下而上, 繞過腰間主繩.
圖5.同樣動作, 再繞一次腰間主繩, 並將左右雙繩服貼拉緊於臀部.
圖6.將繩頭再打一個平結, 鬆緊度以較緊較好.
圖7.將繩尾的繩段再打一個半扣(或稱單結或優勝美地收尾結)靠緊主結.
圖8.最後將大D鉤環,由內而外繞過兩個平結, 再繞半圈, 使成為大D開口成上位置(作者註: 為方便套豬鼻子或八字環及套繩使用), 即大功告成.

附註: 使用本威廉式簡易座帶, 指導者或教練在操作學員垂降或上攀時, 要隨時檢視學員的座帶1.兩個平結是否鬆脫? 2.是否有打半扣? 及3.臀帶是否服貼? 4.尺寸是否合適?

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By 宗明 (Ming Cheng)

去年加入某"溯源+登頂"活動,一位隊友忘記帶座帶(吊帶),因為該次行程需架繩攀登
通過大岩壁及瀑布,座帶不可或缺,慶幸領隊巧手用六尺扁帶綁了一個座帶,經過
二天考驗,確實也堪用. 不過這不能算是簡易座帶(吊帶).

見附圖:

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By 宗明 (Ming Cheng)參考美軍的簡易座帶的打法教學: (使用約4米長繩索)

RAPPEL SEAT

The rappel seat is an improvised seat rappel harness made of rope. It usually requires a sling rope 14 feet or longer.

A. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Find the middle of the sling rope and make a bight.

STEP 2. Decide which hand will be used as the brake hand and place the bight on the opposite hip.

STEP 3. Reach around behind and grab a single strand of rope. Bring it around the waist to the front and tie two overhands on the other strand of rope, thus creating a loop around the waist.

STEP 4. Pass the two ends between the legs, ensuring they do not cross.

STEP 5. Pass the two ends up under the loop around the waist, bisecting the pocket flaps on the trousers. Pull up on the ropes, tightening the seat.

STEP 6. From rear to front, pass the two ends through the leg loops creating a half hitch on both hips.

STEP 7. Bring the longer of the two ends across the front to the nonbrake hand hip and secure the two ends with a square knot safetied with overhand knots. Tuck any excess rope in the pocket below the square knot.


B. Check Points.

(1) There are two overhand knots in the front.
(2) The ropes are not crossed between the legs.
(3) A half hitch is formed on each hip.
(4) Seat is secured with a square knot with overhand safeties on the non-brake hand side.
(5) There is a minimum 4-inch pigtail after the overhand safeties are tied.

註:
1. Overhand Knot - 單結

文中的 two overhand knots 應該是打單結時, 一繩在另一繩上多繞一圈, 不是打兩次單結而成為死結. 此結稱為 Double Overhand Knot, 如下圖:


2. Half Hitch - 半結


3. Square Knot - 平結

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如何鎖定確保器 (How to Lock Off Belay Device)

如何鎖定確保器

在做攀登確保時或沿繩垂降的過程中，如果需要騰出雙手，可以鎖定確保器，一般是打個固定結 (Mule knot)。好處是，當想要繼續確保或垂降時，只要簡單地拉開繩索即可迅速鬆綁繩結，但是依據你所使用的確保器不同而有不同的打法：

• 義大利半扣上的固定結
• 豬鼻子上的固定結
• 八字環上的固定結

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• 義大利半扣上的固定結

先談最容易的，鎖定義大利半扣不難，因為是向上拉繩來制動主繩 - 在同一個方向上打固定結。 因此在繫繩結時比較容易控制住主繩，有充分的摩擦力來制動主繩。

為安全起見，在固定結上方再打一個單結來確保它。 (參考上圖)

• 豬鼻子上的固定結

在豬鼻子上方打固定結比較困難，因為你需要同時用制動手下拉主繩，並把固定結打在豬鼻子上方。 訣竅是先在豬鼻子的尾端給繩穿過下方的鈎環，這保證可以正確地使用豬鼻子制動，並輕鬆地繫個固定結。

• 八字環上的固定結

雖然八字環是個多用途的裝備，但是多數攀登者不再使用八字環，鎖住八字環比鎖住豬鼻子銷微容易點，通常八字環有足夠的摩擦力，所以制動手不必保持向下，只要在八字環上打個固字結，就像在義大利半扣上的打法。

(如果同時握繩制動和打繩結有困難，改用為在豬鼻子上打固定結的同樣方法，給繩穿過確保器下方的鈎環。)

另加招數：可以用簡單地將繩子制動手的那一端扣過八字環將它鎖定，如下圖所示。 但一定要注意，如果你還需要做許多跳躍動作和大擺動，這個繫法可能鬆脫。

免責聲明
警告！ 本頁的資訊可能不完全、不精準或者徹底錯誤，使用本頁的資訊時，運用你自己的判斷。
譯者註：以上的操作如果運用不當，必然招致立即危險，務必請教教練或資深領隊，了解並熟悉實際操作的必要注意事項。

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作者: Richard Laffers
原載: How to Lock Off Belay Device - ropedup.wordpress.com
日期: 7/10/2007 (July 10, 2007)
譯者: 宗明 (Ming Cheng)
曰期: 05/18/2008 (May 18, 2008)

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分解圖：

義大利半扣上的固定結





豬鼻子上的固定結






八字環上的固定結

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指力板 訓練指南 (Fingerboard)

指力板 訓練指南 (Fingerboard) Metolius指力板 訓練指南 以下是Metolius攀岩好手多年來持續訓練，發掘問題，尋求解答，所歸納出來的訓練課程。 首 先我們必須強調，每一個攀岩者都有自己非常特殊複雜的的身體狀況。為了達到訓練的成效，你的訓練課程必須先對自己的強處與弱點做深入且完整的評估，同時考 慮個人攀岩的目標。希望以下的資訊能幫助你建立一套適合自己的個人化訓練課程。雖然目前市面上有各種的訓練書籍資訊，但是必須要瞭解這些資訊的提供對象是 怎樣的攀岩者，而你自己的定位又如何，是能夠全時從事攀岩與訓練的專業攀岩者或是只希望能強化體能與信心的週末攀岩者？ 蒐集各類的資訊，聽聽專家的意見，花些時間來試驗各種方法，然後進行對你最有效的訓練。唯有對自己的體能負責，對自己的訓練課程持之以恆，才能達到訓練的目標。 指力訓練是改進攀岩能力的關鍵 隨 著室內岩場的增多與盛行，指力板已退居為第二線的訓練工具。但是我們認為指力訓練板具有方便性與特定性的優點。在家中門廊安裝一塊不佔空間的指力板讓你既 使在忙碌中也能抽出時間進行快速的訓練。指力板的造型也能使你比在岩場更能有效評估特定力量進步的幅度。當你在指力板上抓著特定手點進行一組練習時，你很 容易控制訓練的份量。因此你可以訓練到體能的極限，卻不易讓手指受傷。 指力訓練的進步幅度較不容易掌握。要瞭解到你所鍛鍊的是肌腱與韌帶 締結組織。它們需要長時間才能夠增強，而當受傷時需要更長的時間才會痊癒。當你同時使用指力板與人工岩場訓練時，要小心避免手指與手臂承受過大的或過長期 間的負荷。當有受傷徵兆時，要花時間讓它復原。當症狀持續，特別是有長期疼痛與腫脹時，請尋求運動傷害的專業醫師治療。 訓練課程 你 可以利用Metolius指力板做兩類的訓練：培養爆發力或是培養肌耐力。以耐力為導向的訓練能使你的肌肉在長期間下運作。這類的訓練通常是讓你的肌肉在 處於接近有氧的狀態下運動，也就是在較輕的負荷下進行較長期間的運動。爆發力導向的訓練著重於短期間、高負荷的運動，讓你的肌肉在力量的極限下快速的疲 乏。此類的訓練能增強肌力（肌纖維增粗且能支配更多的肌纖維），使你能做出快速的移動。 以下的訓練方法均假設你的肌力已經達到相當的水準。這些訓練也都以爆發力為導向，這是因為： 我們認為你能從爆發力訓練中培養出一些耐力，但是卻無法從耐力導向的訓練中培養爆發力。當然，二者最好是能分別來訓練。 無論從生理上或心理上而言，長期間懸吊在指力板上訓練耐力都是極困難的。 每 次訓練的負荷重量必須由你自己來決定。使用你在各階段的最大安全負荷量能帶給你最大的增益。負荷量的決定是以你的體重為基準。如果你需要增加重量，可以使 用荷重的腰帶。如果你要減輕重量，可以將椅子或板凳放在指力板的後下方，以單腳下撐。記得另一腳留在你的正下方，當你墜落時能以此腳著地。你可以將磅秤放 在椅子上，如此能夠精確的測量到減輕了多少的重量（如右圖）。如果你不放心這種方法，也可以找同伴來舉起你。 善用你的同伴 同伴能幫你計時、增加或減少重量。他也能激勵你用盡最後的一分力量，保護你安全的墜落著地。 訂定訓練課程並且堅持下去 製作一張表單來記錄你的訓練進度。如果你有每階段荷重的詳細記錄，就能逐漸增加份量，讓你的訓練得到最佳的效果。 使用不同的手點做各種的訓練動作 你可能會發現某些手點較適合做引體向上而某些手點較適合做的懸吊或其他動作。很重要的一點是找出你的弱點並且優先訓練這部份。例如你或許較不善於抓住圓弧形的手點，那就在每次訓練的前期先專注於這類的訓練。每種訓練動作的手點最好每隔幾週能改變一下，讓你的訓練更加有效。 一些應避免的事宜 避免在指力板上做過多的引體向上。在固定的支點上做過多的引體向上容易導致肘關節受傷。如果你想要做比我們訂定更多的引體向上，建議使用Metolius指力環。 避免在指力板上做改變手指姿勢的動作。當你的手指承載了身體的重量後，不要再嘗試移動手指（例如以手指上拉），以免導致受傷。 手點的抓握方法是非常重要的。避免使用指關節彎曲超過90度的抓握法（cling/crimp)。即使在攀岩時也不宜經常使用這種方法，因為這種彎曲角度對 指關節造成非常大的負荷，容易導致受傷。我們發覺如果採用張開式抓法(open hand)的訓練，你能夠安全的同時增強彎曲式與張開式抓法的力量。右圖繪出了這兩種抓法。訓練時使用岩粉，並在需要時以尼龍刷來清潔指力板。 訓練動作 以下是在指力板上的基本訓練動作： 懸吊 ─ 伸直或是彎曲手臂，單手或雙手。即使是伸直手臂，手肘仍須稍微彎曲。 引體向上 ─ 雙手對稱或是不對稱（一手抓較高或較小的手點）。不對稱式能增加對較高或較小手點的負荷，更能有效模擬某些攀岩狀況。 舉膝 ─ 抓住良好的手點然後將膝蓋舉至胸高，彎曲腰部與膝部。這個動作是鍛鍊常被忽略的腹部肌力。 聳肩 ─ 懸吊如上並在不彎曲手肘下提起、放上身體。這個動作鍛鍊肩部幾個不同的肌肉群。如同引體向上，我們建議低的重複次數。 訓練週期 就策略性而言，週期性的訓練能使你在最需要時達到顛峰，或許是比賽季節的進入，或許是攀岩旅行的開始。安排得當的話，運動傷害與心理倦怠的可能性會降至最低，而肌力、耐力能夠達到高潮。 整個原理很簡單：先建立基本的耐力，再培養最大的爆發力。如此的循環能使你獲得最大的力量增益並充滿鬥志。不至因日復一日重複同樣的訓練而陷入倦怠低潮，停滯在訓練的高原期。再完成高峰期循環後你必能邁向更新的攀岩挑戰。下表的週期範例可以在六月重新開始。 定義： 強度： 就單一動作或整體訓練而言，達到最大能力的百分比。例如在充分休息後，你最多能在某一手點懸吊1分鐘，則65%強度代表在同一手點懸吊40秒。利用這樣的 簡單測試方法來衡量你的最大極限。這些強度的數據必須注意調整，當你更強壯時向上調升，在你尚未自上次訓練完全恢復時向下調整。 份量：訓練的期間長短或做幾組或幾種動作。這是你在訓練中最容易調整的一項因素，當你更強時增加份量，當你尚未恢復時減少份量。要記得份量與強度是不同的。 負荷：從本身體重增加或減少多少重量。對許多動作而言，你必須根據不同的手點來增加重量（使用荷重的腰帶）或是減少重量（由同伴扶撐或以單腳輕踩下方的椅子）以達到一定的強度。 次數：做多少次引體向上或其他的動作。 頻率：每週訓練幾次。 其他的考慮因素 熱身：多花些時間來伸展並運動你將要使用到的肌肉。在訓練中與訓練後多喝水。 清楚分辨正常肌肉酸痛與締結組織受傷疼痛的差異。在訓練中受傷是摧毀你攀岩目標的最快速方法。 休息：找出在不同週期中你需要多少的休息並且切實遵守。你每次開始訓練時應該完全沒有肌肉疼痛。 次週期：在你的漫長艱辛的負荷期與高峰期中再加以區分，以避免陷入停滯高原期。通常依次為困難日、輕鬆日、中等日。如此適量的讓你得到一些舒解，但也不至於使你身體安於中度的體能狀態。 10分鐘訓練課程 以下之10分鐘訓練範例對於耐力與爆發力訓練有很好的結合。每個人必須經過一些試驗後再加以調整，也可以針對特定的攀岩目標加以修正。爆發力訓練的期間短而負荷重或困難。耐力訓練的期間較長而強度較弱。 每個動作在一分鐘內完成。利用剩餘的時間休息。在指力板下方掛一支錶或在牆上掛上一個鐘，使你在訓練時能很容易看的到。 初級 中級 熱身 充 分的熱身是培養肌力和避免受傷的最重要步驟之一。最好是先從大肌肉開始熱身，再到較小的肌肉。你可以先做低強度的有氧運動，再做些一般性的重量訓練。然後 在指力板上的各種手點做一兩下引體向上或10至20秒的懸吊，各個動作間隔30秒的休息。熱身後在花些時間作伸展運動，依然是從大肌肉開始再逐漸到手指部 份。在你完全熱身後休息5到10分鐘再開始訓練工作。 其他一些訓練要訣 絕對要有足夠的時間來熱身，這是你能避免受傷的最佳方法。 在你開始懸吊前花點時間讓你的手指熟悉並抓穩手點，如此能使你抓握的更有力，並建立訓練前的心理準備。 當你抓好手點準備要開始懸吊時，讓你的身體在手點的正下方，如此能避免你提起腳時身體的擺盪。擺盪會使你很難懸吊住。 當你準備好懸吊後，不要再移動手指在手點上的位置，特別是在圓弧形的手點上。 經常刷乾淨你的指力板。乾淨不滑膩的手點對你心理上很有幫助。 在每個動作前手指要好好的抹上岩粉。Metolius Super Chalk岩粉能帶給你最佳的效果。 建立個人化的訓練課程並且堅持下去。如果你有均衡的、變化不枯燥的課程，你一定能夠變的更強壯。進步是需要時間的，耐心能使你更快看到成果。 如 果你停滯在高原期的瓶頸，再回頭檢討一下當初的預期是否理想過高。通常停滯不前代表你可能需要更多的休息或者暫停某些例行訓練。或許你該想想如何更加的激 勵自己。找個同伴一同訓練，夢想一下你的下一場比賽或攀岩活動，或者想像一下完成訓練後會有多強壯。任何能維持你正面態度的辦法都是值得一試的！ 　 警語：指力板訓練潛藏著手指、手臂、肩部以及關節受傷的危險。請務必熱身、伸展、避免過度訓練、並且隨時注意身體徵狀以避免受傷。請切記即使在最佳狀況下仍有受傷的可能。安裝指力板時務必要穩固不晃動，以免在訓練時脫落。 資料來源: http://hk.geocities.com/hkclimbing/training.htm 原文參考:Metolius Fingerboard Training Guide (資料摘自Metolius攀岩精品)

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Metolius Fingerboard Training Guide

Source: Metolius Fingerboard Training Guide

Following are some training routines that have been developed through our own experience as well as that of our friends and associates. We are not professional exercise people. We are serious about our climbing and have seen the benefits of making training an integral part of our activities for many years. Our beliefs concerning training for climbing are the result of years of asking questions and searching for answers.

From our perspective, the single most important thing to keep in mind is that each of us has a very unique and complex body. To be most effective, your training program starts with a critical and complete assessment of your strengths and weaknesses along with your goals for climbing. If you use this realistic list as a filter for all the information available, hopefully you will end up with an individual program that is ideally suited to you. There are now many sources of information out there that pertain to training for climbing. Try to keep in mind who you are and who the information is targeted to, a person who can afford to climb and train full time or the weekend athlete who wants to make some gains in strength and confidence.

The bottom line in training is that you must be responsible for your own body and your own training schedule. Research the available information, listen to the "experts", take the time to experiment, and then do what works best for you.

Contact Strength or Finger Training is a Crucial Part of Improving Your Climbing

With the popularity and increased access to indoor climbing walls, fingerboards are becoming a second line method of training. However, we feel that there are some great advantages to the convenience and specificity of training boards. Having a board mounted in a doorway to a spare room or your garage makes it easy to schedule a quick workout if a little time is all you have. The specific nature of fingerboard training enables you to gauge your progress much more effectively than bouldering at the rock gym or your home wall. It is easier to control if and when you fail doing a set exercise on a particular hold on a board, than if you are desperately thrutching for the last hold on your latest plastic bouldering test-piece. This factor will hopefully permit you to work to your limits while minimizing the chance of injury to your fingers.

Finger training programs can be difficult to figure out. Keep in mind that what you are strengthening is essentially connective tissue, tendons and ligaments. It takes a long time to notice gains in strength in this tissue and a very long time to heal once it has been injured. If you are using fingerboard training in addition to indoor climbing on plastic, be aware of how much stress you are putting on your fingers and arms, and be careful to not over-do your training. If you start having problems, allow yourself time to heal. If problems continue, specifically long-term pain and swelling in your fingers, consult a sports-oriented physician.

The Training

There are two general categories of exercises that you can do on your Metolius training board. In simple terms, they are exercises that build power or exercises that build stamina /endurance. Endurance-oriented exercises are a set of tasks that put your muscles in a more or less aerobic state; that is, training your muscles to function for extended periods. They generally are a longer duration and a lower load exercises and you are maintaining a lower level "burn" in the muscles than the pump you get at the limit of your strength. Power-oriented exercises focus on short duration, higher load tasks that your muscles can’t maintain for very long. With these exercises, you are building strength (muscle fiber size ) and the capacity to recruit more muscle fibers for short, quick bursts of movement.

Any of the training that follows assumes a good base strength level. Most of the work or exercises that follow are power-oriented for a couple of reasons:

　- We feel that you can develop some endurance from a power workout, but you cannot develop good power from an endurance-oriented workout and in fact, it is best if they are trained independently.
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　- It is hard both physically and mentally, to hang on a board for the extended periods required to totally target endurance.

The amount of load you use for each exercise is up to you to determine. We feel the most gains happen if you use a safe maximum load for the cycle that you are in. Try to pick a load that allows you to barely hold on for the time indicated in the exercise. Load is determined relative to your body weight. If you need to add weight, use a weight belt. If you need to reduce weight, use a chair or step stool set back from and under the board that allows you push with one leg. Make sure your other leg stays below you, so that if you fall, you land on your feet. You can use a bathroom scale on a chair to give you a more accurate idea of how much weight you are taking off (see illustration). If you don’t feel safe using this method, have a partner lift you instead.

Use Partners

Partners can check your time and remove or add weight as well as give you assistance and cheer you on when you’re trying to get that last bit of effort out. Having a partner spot you when training to absolute failure is highly recommended.

Setup A Workout Schedule & Stick To It

Make a chart and use it to keep track of your training. If you keep a detailed record showing amounts of weight and/or assistance for each segment of an exercise, it will be much easier to slowly increase your workload. These records will help you get the most benefit from your training time.

Use Any of the Holds For Any Exercise

You will probably find that certain holds are better suited to certain exercises than others. For example, you would probably do pull-ups on different holds than short duration hangs. It is also important to look at your weakest points and train those first. For example, if you have a hard time holding onto sloping holds, focus your training there early in your workouts. It is also a good idea to change the holds you use for a given exercise every few weeks, to maximize the effectiveness of your training.

Dos & Don'ts

Avoid doing an excessive number of pull-ups on your board. A lot of pull-ups on a static bar can lead to elbow joint injuries. If you wish to do more pull-ups than our exercises indicate, we recommend that you use Metolius Rock Rings.

Avoid range of motion exercises for your fingers on any training board. Once you place weight on a hold do not attempt to move your fingers (don’t do mini pull-ups with your fingers) as this can lead to injury.

Avoid using crimp or cling grips. A very important aspect concerning any hold is how you hold on to it. It is extremely important that you do not use any kind of cling technique regularly. Because of the increased angle of your fingers while clinging, the load on your finger joint is far too high to be safe for training purposes. We have found that if you keep your hand more open, you will be safer and still can strengthen your fingers for both open-handed and cling holds. The illustration pictured shows both types of holds. Use chalk when training and occasionally clean your board with a nylon brush to maintain a consistent surface.

The Tasks

Following are the basic elements of exercises that can be done on your training board:
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　Hangs - either straight arm or bent arm, one arm or both. When hanging straight, there should still be a slight bend to the elbows.
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　Pull-ups - can be done with the hands parallel or offset ( one of your hands on a higher or smaller hold than the other). Offset pulls put more training stress on the higher or smaller hold arm and can more effectively simulate certain climbing situations.
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　Knee Lifts - Hang on good holds and bring your knees to your chest, bending at the waist and knees. This task works the often overlooked abdominals for that solid mid-body connection.
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　Shoulder Shrugs - Hang as above and raise and lower your body without bending your elbows. This exercise works several different muscle groups in the shoulder girdle. As with pull-ups, we would recommend keeping repetitions low.

Cyclic Periodization

As an overall strategy, cyclic periodization allows you to be at your peak when you want to be. Whether this corresponds to a big road trip or pushing your limits when the weather is the best is up to you. If properly done chances of injury and mental burnout are minimized and gains in strength and power are optimized.

The concept is simple; build a base of endurance then work toward maximum power. By pushing your body in these cycles you strike a balance between letting yourself be fresh and strong within the cycles and not letting yourself totally adapt to the stresses of the workouts. This keeps you from stalling at different plateaus and makes the gains possible much greater than doing the same sets of workouts month after month. Immediately following the peak cycle you should be ready to climb strongly. The Cycle Shown Below Would Start Again In June.




Definitions

　- Intensity = A percentage of your maximum effort, as applied to a single set or an overall workout. As an example; when you are fully rested and it is all you can do to hang on a particular hold for one minute, then 65% intensity would be hanging for 40 seconds on the same hold. Picking an easy to measure test such as this and getting to know the level of "pump" that corresponds to that intensity, then allows you to tailor other exercises to your particular goal. This is the crucial element of any workout program, one that determines the other elements and one that needs the most attention and adjustment. Think of intensity as a set point that you need to adjust upward as you get stronger or adjust downward if you are not recovering between workouts.
　- Volume = The length of your workout or how many sets or exercises. This is one of the easiest elements to adjust according to where you are in your training regime ( up as you get stronger, down if you are not recovering). Remember volume is not the same as intensity.
　- Load = How much weight relative to body weight. This assumes that for many of the exercises with certain holds you will need to add weight ( by using a weighted belt) or subtract weight (by having a spotter lift you or by placing a footstool under the board to lightly put one foot on) to hang for a particular time for a set intensity.
　- Repetitions = How many pull-ups or separate movements in an exercise.
　- Frequency = How many days per week to train.

Other Elements to Consider

　- Warm-up: Take plenty of time to stretch and lightly work all the muscles you are going to use in your workout session. Drink plenty of water during and following workouts.
　- Know the difference between a healthy muscle ache and pain associated with connective tissue damage. There is no quicker way to sabotage your climbing goals than to try to train through injuries.
　- Rest: figure out what you need for the different cycles and take it! You should go into each workout without muscle pain.
　- Micro-cycles: These are incorporated into the longer, harder main cycles (load and peak ) to keep you from plateauing within the cycle. Usually done in a hard day! easy day! moderate day. This is intended to break up your routines enough that you stay rested, but still are not letting your body settle into one medium mode.

The Exercises

These exercises can be added to or used instead of the ones shown in the following example workouts. The 10-minute sequences especially lend themselves to experimentation. They are good combinations of endurance and power work and can be adapted to training for a specific climb. Keep in mind some general guidelines when thinking about adapting exercises to yourself. Power exercises keep durations of tasks short, with heavier or harder loads. Endurance exercises are longer, less intense; you should feel like you are maintaining a low-level pump. The easiest element of the exercises to change is generally load; be familiar with the various ways to do this. In the exercise sequences that follow, if a 2-minute rest is not indicated, proceed immediately to the next task.

Warming Up

One of the most important steps in muscular development and injury prevention is a thorough warm up. Generally, the best way to do this is to warm up the large muscles that will be used first, and then move to the smaller. There are various ways to accomplish this; start with low level aerobics, then general calisthenics or weight lifting. You can follow this with a series of one or two pull-ups or a 10 to 20 second hang on each hold on your board, with a 30s rest between each task. Take time to stretch after you are warmed up, once again starting with the large muscles and working your way to your fingers. After you are completely warmed up give yourself a rest of 5 to 10 minutes before starting the workout.

Extra Training Tips

　1. Always give yourself enough time for a thorough warm-up. This is undoubtedly the best thing you can do to keep yourself injury free.
　2. Take some time before you start each hang to work your fingers into the hold. This "milking the hold" enables you to get a more powerful grip and mentally prepares you for the task ahead.
　3. When you are ready to hang for a time and after you have set yourself on the hold, let your body down directly below the hold, so that when you raise your feet your body does not swing. Swinging makes it a lot harder to hang on.
　4. To be most effective, once you have milked the holds and started your hang, don’t move your fingers on the hold. This is especially true when hanging on slopers.
　5. Brush the holds on your board frequently, even between exercises. Knowing the holds are clean and grease free is a big boost psychologically.
　6. Chalk your hands and fingers well before each task. For superior performance, on plastic or rock, use Metolius Super Chalk.
　7. Personalize your training regime and then stick to it. If you have a balanced program, with enough variety to keep you motivated you will get stronger. It takes time to see improvements, patience will make the gains come sooner.
　8. If you feel stuck on a major plateau, go back over your original expectations and make sure they are realistic. Often, stalling may indicate you need more rest or a break from some part of your routine. Or it may mean take a look at what you can do to improve your motivation. Find a good partner to train with, dream about your next trip, or think about how good you will feel once you’re done with your workout. Anything you can do to maintain your positive attitude will pay off big!


Warning All Training Board Users: Training on a hangboard carries risk of injury to fingers, arms, shoulders and the joints connecting them. Take every precaution to avoid damage to yourself; warm-up, stretch, don't overtrain and listen to your body. Remember, even under the best of circumstances, injuries can occur. In addition, however you mount your board, be sure that it cannot move in any direction. There should be no possible way for the board to come down while training.

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指力板 (Fingerboard 或稱 Hangboard) 參考圖片

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梅竹岩館的 - 如何DIY指力板與木頭岩塊

可供 '巧手傑出人士' 自行DIY製造時參考用.

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By Laiqq

http://laiqqq.spaces.live.com/blog/cns!7217054286CE7BBE!593.entry

自己組裝製作的指力板。

底座木板(大賣場買的)+指力條(拔山買的)+六個孔可裝岩塊(鑽孔+四角釘)，

在家看電視可以邊練指力，還不錯玩。

不過使用真的要小心，不然很容易受傷，手指或腳(不小時墜落又沒穿鞋或沒地墊)。

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女子如何練攀岩

女子如何練攀岩

男女在體育運動中的相似常常使人誤認為女子應該將男子訓練中的一切照搬過來，從而使其成績盡可能地接近男子水準。攀岩運動同其他體育運動一樣，不僅要掌握各種技巧，同時需要進行艱苦的專項身體素質訓練。本文試圖對攀岩運動中女運動員的解剖，生理特點進行分析。


1、身體特點

男女在身材比例上是有差異的，女子上體較長，腿相對短，身體重心比男子低6%，這樣女子就具有較好的平衡能力，另外，女子的肩也較窄，臀部較大。

女 子的肌肉與肌肉占體重40%~50%的男子相比，肌肉顯得不夠發達，通常不超過體重的35%，根據萊吐諾夫(前蘇聯)的研究，女子的體脂占體重的28%， 而男子的體脂平均僅為體重的18%，這意味著女子比男子少10%~15%有利於運動的肌肉，而比男子多10%的不利於運動的脂肪組織，但不排除一些腿工， 髖窄、精瘦，表現出較大運動潛力的女運動員例外。由於女子腹部，肩部以及腿部的肌肉大大弱於男子，依據上述特點，在攀岩訓練中應特別注意發展絕對力量和力 量耐力等素質。

另一方面，因女子骨組織中水和脂肪的含量比男子多，脊椎的椎間軟骨較厚，故女子有較好的關節靈活性和柔韌性，使得女子對自身動作時機和動作節奏的調節較好，這使她們在運動中在平穩能力，靈巧性，柔韌性等方面具備有利條件。從某種意義上來說，女運動員能更為有效地掌握技術。


2、經期訓練

傳統的偏見對於正確認識女子在體育運動中的生理特點，有著極大的影響。絕大數女隊員在經期不訓練或隨便活動一下，而實際情形則相反。

在 經期，有輕度不舒適的感覺，如下腹部發脹，腰酸，食欲不好，疲倦，情緒易激動等，這都屬於經期的正常生理現象，可以照常進行訓練，但運動量可適當調整。適 當的運動量能有效地改善人體的機能狀態，促進血液迴圈，運動時腹肌，盆底肌的帳縮與放鬆交替進行，對子宮起按摩作用，有利於經血的排出。

人的適應能力很強，經期進行訓練會很快適應。

當然，也不排除個體之間的差異，正像調查中所發現的那樣，有81.6%的女運動員在經期能表現出正常或更好的成績，而有18.4%的運動員則低於她們正常的成績水準。

由上述可見，機體在經期的反應個體差異是有的，而應該認識到運動員一旦從事攀岩運動，她必須要有堅定的信念和吃苦耐勞的精神，作為女運動員，經期可作一些諸如：手肌、上臂肌、前臂肌及用力技術：抓、拉、推、蹬、踏、磨擦和平衡能力等方面的訓練。


3、發展力量

攀岩運動就其技術而言，就是支點固定攀登，它要求運動員要有很大的力量，克服自身的重力向上攀登，因此，攀岩訓練中專項力量的發展就變得極為重要。

尤其是女運動員，肌肉不夠發達，體脂較多，又加之女子肌肉中的水分占74.7%，糖元含量比男子少，所以，女子肌力弱。

肌 力的大小與神經系統的機能，肌肉的生理與生化變化和肌肉生理橫斷面積都有關，肌肉橫斷面增大是由於抽纖維增粗造成的，橫斷面粗，肌肉就有力，力量訓練是肌 纖維增粗的有效手段， 發展女子肌肉力量，結合攀岩這一項目，不但要普遍發展肩帶肌，背肌，腹肌和盆帶肌等力量素質，還要著重發展專門力量如：上臂肌、前臂肌、足肌和手肌等；其 發展力量的訓練方法較多，一般是肩帶肌用負重直臂側舉，拉力器等；背肌用提拉杠鈴聳肩，引體向上，爬杆，負重體屈伸等；腹肌用仰臥直角起，負重轉體，仰臥 舉腿等；盆帶肌用負重高抬腿，正踢腿，俯臥“背腿”，負重腿屈伸等；上臂肌用雙杠支撐屈伸，前臂肌用正、反纏重錘，正、反握負重腕屈伸等；手肌用手指懸 垂，握力器，手指抓重物等。

據日本資料介紹力量發展最快階段為13~14歲，蘇聯科洛布科夫研究不同年齡肌力的變化，提出力量最高峰是在 20~23歲時期，也就是女子在 13~14歲時絕對力量增長最快，在20—23歲時力量表現出最大。這樣一來，在訓練過程中，要根據運動員的年齡，身體狀況合理安排運動。

一 般來講，現在攀岩運動員的年齡大多在18~23歲左右，這時的力量值基本接近最高點，絕對力量增加緩慢，力量的訓練量和強度都要波浪式進行。 根據女子的特點，力量訓練中應避免採用單一、大重量、重複的方法，這樣會對骨盆下部產生重壓；不要限制訓練時的動作副度，否則會使韌帶，肌健緊張，影響肌 肉的彈性。

轉貼自: 技法指南 – 搜狸戶外