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Better Beta
How to Safely Clean Anchors - Part 1
Threading and cleaning the anchors on a sport climb is dangerous. Unfortunately, most methods are complicated and require more effort than redpointing the route! Systems like double daisy chains, long girth hitched slings and extra locking biners often result in a rat's nest rivaling a big wall belay. The simplest solutions, however, are often the best. For your latest project, consider using this version of a Petzl recommended method:
1. Clip each anchor with a quickdraw and ensure that the biner gates are opposed.
2. Clip the lead rope into the anchor draws.
3. Have your belayer take you tight and sit back on the rope and anchors.
4. Take a spare quickdraw and clip it into your belay loop.
5. Grab one of the anchor draws and pull yourself up to clip the quickdraw from your belay loop into the bottom biners of the anchor quickdraws.
6. You are now no longer weighting the rope and are directly clipped to the anchors. Make sure that your belayer keeps you on belay, but with less tension.
7. Ask for slack from your belayer. Stay on belay.
8. Reach down and take a bight of rope that you will push through both anchor rings.
Note: Quickdraws on the anchors have been omitted in the diagram for clarity.9. Once through both rings, continue to pull slack in the bight of rope and tie an overhand figure-8 knot.
10. Take a small locking biner and clip this overhand figure-8 knot directly into your belay loop. Make sure you lock the biner.
Note: Quickdraws on the anchors have been omitted in the diagram for clarity.11. Double check with your belayer that you are still on belay and proceed to untie the rope from your tie in point on your harness.
12. Pull this tail of rope through the anchor rings.
Note: Quickdraws on the anchors have been omitted in the diagram for clarity.13. Ask for tension from your belayer and unclip from the anchors.
14. Lower safely to the ground.
In the next issue we will explain how to thread and clean sport climbing anchors that are too small to allow a bight of rope to be threaded.
Better Beta
How to Safely Clean Anchors – Part 2
In the first part of this series (Oct. 2006) we discussed cleaning sport route anchors equipped with ring anchors. The process involved pushing a bight of rope through the rings, tying a figure eight knot on the bight and clipping it into your belay loop with a locking biner (see Gripped e-Mag Issue 1, October 2006). When you encounter chain anchors however, the links may be too small to pass a bight of rope. In these cases consider using the following cleaning sequence.
1. Clip a quickdraw into each length of chain above the last chain link. Make sure you clip the draws with the bottom biner gates opposed.
2. Clip the lead rope into the anchor draws.
3. Have your belayer take you tight and sit back on the rope and anchors.
4. Take a spare quickdraw and clip it into your belay loop.
5. Grab one of the anchor draws and pull yourself up to clip your belay loop draw into the bottom biner of one of the anchor quickdraws.
6. You are now no longer weighting the rope and are directly clipped to the anchors. Make sure that your belayer keeps you on belay, but with less tension.
7. Ask for slack from your belayer. Stay on belay.
8. Reach down and take a large bight of rope. Tie a figure eight knot on a bight and clip the knot into the top biner of one of the draws already clipped into the chains. This prevents the rope from being dropped during the next sequence.
9. Untie the rope from your harness and pull it out of the anchor draws.
10. Thread the free end of the rope (previously attached to your harness) through the free bottom links on the two sections of chain.
11. Tie back into your harness.
12. Unclip and untie the figure eight knot from the top biner on the anchor draw.
13. Double check that you are still on belay and then ask your belayer for tension.
14. Unclip your belay loop draw from the two quick draws in the chains. You’ll now be sitting back the rope.
15. Remove the two draws from the anchor chains.
16. Lower safely to the ground.
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